With my new shop space, I have a handful of things to organize before I can really call it a “shop”. One big item on that list of to-dos is a lumber rack. So… I set out to design the best solution to fit the space.
Here are some details:
- This design is modular!
- Free standing
- Simple glue & screw construction
- 8′ tall
- 4 shelves 30″ deep
All you need is a few 2×4’s, 2×6’s, 3/4 plwood, glue, and screws! If you want to build your own, click here to get the lumber rack plans!
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Here are the tools and items I used for the project:
Materials (qty’s in plans)
- 2×4
- 2×6
- 3/4 4×8 plywood
- #10 1-1/2 wood screws (Spax)
- #10 3-1/2 wood screws (Spax)
- Glue (Titebond II)
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Ready to Build Your Lumber Rack?
Go get the plans below! They even have cut sheets and a pricing guide so you know what the project will cost before even running out to the lumber yard!
Directions are on the plans, but here’s a run through with some photos to get ya building pronto.
Individual Rack Construction
Go ahead and cut all the pieces to make the racks.
I went ahead and screwed the two 2x4s and small 2×4 spacer for the bottom of each rack together.
Now here’s where my build and your build will be a little different. In the plans I call for a continuous piece of plywood to be used. In mine, I used two pieces of OSB on either side of my racks because I had tons left over from other projects. I cut the OSB length so that the seam would line up in between two of the “arms.” If that doesn’t make sense, just look at the photos.
Screw a small block to the bottom of the lower 2×6 on the side you’ll be adding plywood to first. This block serves as a spacer for the bottom 2x4s while securing the plywood.
Lay out the 2×6 vertical pieces and 2×4 arms and align them against a straight edge. I’m using the rail for a Biesemeyer fence I have yet to install on a tablesaw, but any extra 2×4 or angle iron you may have will work. Lay out the pieces as closely together as possible.
Apply glue and then clamp the 2x6s to your straight edge.
Screw (1-1/2″ & 3-1/2″ screws) the plywood to the 2x6s and 2x4s, taking care to keep everything tight as you’re working. Flip the rack over and add the plywood skin to the other side again using glue and screws to secure the assembly.
Once both sides are skinned, secure the bottom 2x4s with 3-1/2″ screws. Make sure this is square with the vertical members, otherwise your rack will lean forward or back.
Now screw the diagonal supports in place with 3-1/2″ screws.
The last piece to add for the individual racks is an additional 2×4 with 3-1/2″ screws on the left or right side for some additional rigidity.
Full Rack Assembly
Now, move the single rack assemblies wherever you’re going to set up the rack and space them apart about 2′ O.C.
Make sure they’re plumb and level to one another before you go to town tying them all together.
Now just get some 2x4s and tie all the racks together with more 3-1/2″ screws and you’re done. I didn’t have any 2x4s on had that would span the full length with a single piece, so I compromised and used shorter 2x4s, but more of them. You’ll get the idea from the photos below.
The last thing to do is fill it up with some lumber.
Got suggestions or questions? Feel free to leave them below and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
Thanks for reading y’all!
Lamarr Wilson says
Good modular concept, Mike.
I would offer that this is a perfect place to use up those repurposed pallet 2×3 or 2×4 beams that probably still have some nails/screws in them. I actually used some to make the legs and stretchers for my work bench (after insuring with a Harbor Freight metal detector that I wasn’t sawing into any metal).
Nice job!!
Mike says
Thanks Lamarr! I used lots of scrap with this project.
Andrew says
This looks great. I’m thinking to use just two of the racks to make a stand for kayaks and surfboards. One thing I didn’t understand is why all the shelf brackets have an angled support but the bottom feet doesn’t – I would have thought that’s the point carrying the most load? I realise you’ve used two 2×4’s there so I guess the glue/ screws can take the cantilever force from above – if so I wonder if I could use the same approach for the shelves – leaving out the angle brackets would allow me to space the shelves closer together.
Not sure if you’ll still see this post but any thoughts much appreciated and either way thanks a lot for providing the pics etc
Mike says
Hi Andrew,
If you’re building this for surf boards and kayaks you may be able to leave the supports out as they aren’t nearly as heavy as a lumber 🙂
Regards,
Mike
Andrew says
Thanks. I’ll try it and I guess I can add the supports afterwards if it flexes too much