With my new shop space, I have a handful of things to organize before I can really call it a “shop”. One big item on that list of to-dos is a lumber rack. So… I set out to design the best solution to fit the space.
Here are some details:
- This design is modular!
- Free standing
- Simple glue & screw construction
- 8′ tall
- 4 shelves 30″ deep
All you need is a few 2×4’s, 2×6’s, 3/4 plwood, glue, and screws! If you want to build your own, click here to get the lumber rack plans!
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Here are the tools and items I used for the project:
Materials (qty’s in plans)
- 2×4
- 2×6
- 3/4 4×8 plywood
- #10 1-1/2 wood screws (Spax)
- #10 3-1/2 wood screws (Spax)
- Glue (Titebond II)
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Ready to Build Your Lumber Rack?
Go get the plans below! They even have cut sheets and a pricing guide so you know what the project will cost before even running out to the lumber yard!
Directions are on the plans, but here’s a run through with some photos to get ya building pronto.
Individual Rack Construction
Go ahead and cut all the pieces to make the racks.
I went ahead and screwed the two 2x4s and small 2×4 spacer for the bottom of each rack together.
Now here’s where my build and your build will be a little different. In the plans I call for a continuous piece of plywood to be used. In mine, I used two pieces of OSB on either side of my racks because I had tons left over from other projects. I cut the OSB length so that the seam would line up in between two of the “arms.” If that doesn’t make sense, just look at the photos.
Screw a small block to the bottom of the lower 2×6 on the side you’ll be adding plywood to first. This block serves as a spacer for the bottom 2x4s while securing the plywood.
Lay out the 2×6 vertical pieces and 2×4 arms and align them against a straight edge. I’m using the rail for a Biesemeyer fence I have yet to install on a tablesaw, but any extra 2×4 or angle iron you may have will work. Lay out the pieces as closely together as possible.
Apply glue and then clamp the 2x6s to your straight edge.
Screw (1-1/2″ & 3-1/2″ screws) the plywood to the 2x6s and 2x4s, taking care to keep everything tight as you’re working. Flip the rack over and add the plywood skin to the other side again using glue and screws to secure the assembly.
Once both sides are skinned, secure the bottom 2x4s with 3-1/2″ screws. Make sure this is square with the vertical members, otherwise your rack will lean forward or back.
Now screw the diagonal supports in place with 3-1/2″ screws.
The last piece to add for the individual racks is an additional 2×4 with 3-1/2″ screws on the left or right side for some additional rigidity.
Full Rack Assembly
Now, move the single rack assemblies wherever you’re going to set up the rack and space them apart about 2′ O.C.
Make sure they’re plumb and level to one another before you go to town tying them all together.
Now just get some 2x4s and tie all the racks together with more 3-1/2″ screws and you’re done. I didn’t have any 2x4s on had that would span the full length with a single piece, so I compromised and used shorter 2x4s, but more of them. You’ll get the idea from the photos below.
The last thing to do is fill it up with some lumber.
Got suggestions or questions? Feel free to leave them below and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
Thanks for reading y’all!
Larry Steinmetz says
Great looking shelves! Do have any idea how much each level may be able to carry? Thanks.
Mike says
Hi Larry,
I’m not completely sure, but one individual built these and loaded it full of 8/4 purple heart! Mine is slam full of white oak, pecan, and maple.
Not sure if this helps you at all, but I’ve not had any issues with the rack not holding enough weight.
Mike
Ed says
Not trying to be a doofus here but how does this not tip over? I would have thought the bottom runners would have to stick out further than the shelf runners…. but then again I’m not an engineer. This looks great though! Thanks for sharing!
Mike says
Hi Ed!
LOL no worries at all! Since the weight does not lean out further than the end of the “foot” the rack doesn’t tip over. That said, best practices would be to keep the heaviest boards closer to the back and on the lower shelves.
Regards,
Mike