I had a client contact me that wanted to add some corner cabinets in their kitchen in a space that was empty but not big enough to really put anything in. Once we settled on a design I got to work, and thanks to my friends at Kreg Tool, I’ve made the plans that show you how to build corner cabinets with raised panel doors available on their site for free!
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Here are the tools and items I used to build these corner cabinets and raised panel doors:
Save money on these tools I used for this project:
- 1/2″ Plywood, 4’x8′
- 1/4″ Plywood, 4’x8′
- Hardwood for face frame, doors, and drawer front
- Drawer slides 14″
- Drawer pulls
- Pocket hole screws 1-1/4″
- Pocket hole screws 3/4″
- 18 gauge nails
- Kreg Foreman
- Kreg 720 Pro
- Kreg 520 Pro
- Kreg router table
- Kreg ACS (track saw)
- Table saw (new version)
- Miter saw
- Drill (new version)
- Impact driver
- Shop Vac
- Tongue and groove router bit set
- Woodpeckers Paolini 6″ pocket rule
- Woodpeckers carpenters square
- Ridgid 18 gauge nailer
- Rockler glue brush
- Freud glue line rip blade
- Freud ultimate plywood & melamine blade
- K Body REVO Parallel Bar Clamp
- Trigger Clamp
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How to Build Corner Cabinets with Raised Panel Doors
- Build corner cabinet carcass
- Make cabinet face frame
- Make and install drawer for corner cabinet
- Make and install raised panel doors
- Install glass in cabinet doors
- Install cabinets
- Get the plans!
Build corner cabinet carcass
To start things off I break down the plywood sheets using the table saw and ACS.
Next up I drill pocket holes for the 3/4″ micro pocket hole screws with my 720 pro as needed per my plans.
With all of the pocket holes drilled, I assemble the carcasses for both the wall and base cabinets.
Make cabinet face frame
Now it’s time to start on the face frames. I begin with a few 4/4 boards of lumber and head to the miter saw to cut them to rough length.
Next I run all of my boards through the milling operations. Starting at the jointer I make one surface flat. I then head to the planer and bring the boards down to a final thickness of 3/4″.
The next thing I do is go back to the jointer and flatten one edge on each board. With this done I cut the boards down to their final widths on the table saw. I then head back to the miter saw one last time and cut each of the rails and stiles to their final lengths.
At this point I break out the Foreman and drill for 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws in the end of each rail and the two dividers.
With all of the holes drilled, I layout the face frame pieces for each cabinet and assemble them per my plans.
Since these are triangular corner cabinets the back side of the face frames need to be cut back at a 45 degree angle. This cut can be done on either the ACS or tablesaw.
I now attach the face frames to each cabinet using 3/4″ micro pocket hole screws. I would typically use 1-1/4″ screws to secure this, but since these cabinets are made from 1/2″ plywood, the micro screws are what I needed to use.
I then added the support piece that the undermount drawer slides will be mounted to by attaching it to the sides of the cabinet and the inside of the face frame.
Make and install drawer for corner cabinet
I now cut all of the drawer box components to size and drill pocket holes where indicated in the plans.
I use a few pocket holes to assemble the front portion of the drawer box and switch to glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails to assemble the back half of the drawer box.
Now things get a little interesting. I grab my angle grinder and cut away some excess material on the drawer slides so that I can get all of the luxury of an undermount soft close slide in a corner cabinet drawer. Make sure to check out the build video to see all the details on this step!
With the drawer slides modified I layout where they need to be installed and use a square to help keep them perpendicular to the face frame during assembly.
Before going any further in the build, I go ahead and double check that the drawer slides are installed correctly and that the drawer opens and closes smoothly.
Make and install raised panel doors
Now I’m ready to start making the drawer front and raised panel doors. After running some boards through the same milling operations as before, I glue up panels for each of the doors and the drawer front.
While the glued up panels are in clamps, I get started milling the rails and stiles on the router table. All of the rails and stiles are grooved and beaded with the grooving cutter and then cut to final length. After this step I always keep the outside (front) surface against the table top so that I maintain a consistent reference surface.
I now switch cutters and cut the tongues on both ends of the rails.
(If making glass panel doors, cut a rabbet at this time on the back of each rail and stile as needed to accept the glass.)
With the panels out of clamps I plane them down to final thickness. The raised panels are milled down to 5/8″ thick and then run through the router table with a raised panel bit in a series of passes to form the final profile.
With all of the parts made for the doors, I assemble them and only apply glue to the tongues on each end of the rails. Don’t glue the panel in place. Doing so could result in a broken door down the road due to seasonal wood movement.
Once the glued up doors have cured, I return to the router table and cut a profile around the perimeter on the front of each door and the drawer front.
Install glass in cabinet doors
Once everything has been painted I install the glass retainer clips to hold the glass in place in the doors for the wall cabinets.
Secure the cabinets to the wall into studs using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. I used 6-8 screws for each cabinet depending on stud spacing and height of the cabinet.
Get the Plans!
Follow the link to head over to Kreg’s website and grab the free plans!
As always, if you have any questions or comments just let me know. And until next time, have fun making something!
Kreg Tool provided me with product and/or monetary compensation as a sponsor of this post. All opinions are my own and are not influenced by the sponsor. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.
Products specifications are sourced on each product page linked above with each item.
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