My wife and daughter had been using a flimsy Ikea desk to do homeschooling at for way too long and it was time for a change. I made this easy to build desk that’s also a great solution for people who are working from home and need a quality desk. With plenty of work space, a handful of drawers, and easy access to a hidden power strip, this desk is a huge improvement!
Thanks to my friends at Kreg Tool, the plans for this desk are available on their site for free!
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Here are the tools and items I used to build this desk!
Save money on these tools I used for this project:
- 3/4″ Plywood, 4’x8′: 2
- 1/2″ Plywood, 4’x8′: 1
- 1/4″ Plywood, 4’x8′: 1
- Hardwood of choice 4/4: ~20bf
- 20″ Undermount drawer slides: 6 sets
- 1-1/4″ Pocket hole screw: <100
- 2-1/2″ Pocket hole screw: 8
- 1″ Micro pocket hole screw: <100
- 1″ Flat head screws: 20
- Glue: 32oz
- General Finishes, high performance top coat: 1 qt
- General Finishes, stain blocker primer: 1 qt
- General Finishes, enduro white poly: 1 qt
- Drawer pulls: 6
- Small hinges: 2
- Power strip: 1
- Kreg ACS (track saw)
- Kreg Foreman, 720 pro, or 520
- Quick Flip
- Kreg router table
- Table saw (new version)
- Miter saw
- Shop Vac
- Drill (new version)
- 1/2″ Forstner Bit
- 1/2″ Bench chisel
- Bushing set
- 1/4″ router bit
- Top bearing router bit
- Tape measure
- Freud glue line rip blade
- Freud ultimate plywood & melamine blade
- K Body REVO Parallel Bar Clamp
- Trigger Clamp
- SurfPrep Sander 3×4″ ROS
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How to Build the Ultimate Miter Saw Bench
- Make Parts for Base
- Assemble the Desk Cabinets
- Back Panel and Power Strip
- How to Make Drawer Boxes
- Installing Drawers
- How to Build a Desk Top
- Make a Flip-Up Panel
- Final Assembly
- Get the Plans!
Make Parts for Base
To kick things off, cut all of the parts for the base of the desk and drill pocket holes where shown in the plans. I also edgeband one edge of each piece of plywood that will face the front of the desk.
Assemble the Desk Cabinets
Moving on to assembly, I grab some clamps along with a fist full of 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws and assemble the boxes for each base of the desk.
I then add some stretchers to the front and back of each cabinet to divide the drawer fronts and to make installing the drawer slides easier. To make locating these pieces easier, I use a spacer to set each end of the stretcher on while screwing it in place.
To create an “air gap” between the base and the top I add two layers of plywood to the top of each cabinet.
Back Panel and Power Strip
I then assemble the power strip support and screw it to the back panel.
How to Make Drawer Boxes
When it comes to making drawer boxes, I cut all of the parts to size and again edgeband the edge of the plywood that will be seen. I also drill micro pocket holes since these drawer boxes are made from 1/2″ plywood.
With two sides and the front of the drawer box together, I slide in the drawer box bottom.
I then finish up the assembly by screwing the back of the drawer box in place.
How to Build a Desk Top
To make the desk top I used 4/4 ambrosia maple and milled it to 3/4″. To make the top look thicker I mitered the front edge and glued a 2″ wide strip to the front. I also glued some material to both ends to fill in the void.
Flip-Up Access to Power Strip
This step is optional but really adds to the utility of the desk. Route out an opening in the desk top (using the two templates that are shown in the build plans) that will accept the flip up lid and allow easy access to the power strip.
Next up I resaw a piece that’s larger that what will be needed for the final piece and cut it to the final size needed.
I then fit the hinge in the desk top and temporarily screw it in place before final sanding and finishing.
With stretchers in the front and back of the cabinet installing the drawer slides is very easy. I set the slides in place and push them back from the cabinet front about 7/8″ and then screw them in position.
To set the drawer fronts, I first slide the drawer boxes in place and center the drawer front with a stack of playing cards under the left and right sides. I then use a bit of double sided tape to temporarily hold the drawer front in place while using 2 to 4 1″ screws to permanently secure the drawer front to the drawer box.
If you haven’t already done so, sand and all of the pieces. I sprayed the cabinet base with two coats of General Finishes Stain Blocker Primer and then top coated it with two coats of flat General Finishes White Enduro Poly. The desk top was finished with 3 coats of flat General Finishes High Performance Top Coat.
Set up the base cabinets where you want the desk to be and screw the back panel in place using 1-¼” pocket hole screws. The back panel should be flush with the top of part 1 on each base cabinet, and inset 3” from the back of the cabinets.
Get the Plans!
Follow the link to head over to Kreg’s website and grab the free plans!
As always, if you have any questions or comments just let me know. And until next time, have fun making something!
Kreg Tool provided me with product and/or monetary compensation as a sponsor of this post. All opinions are my own and are not influenced by the sponsor. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.
Products specifications are sourced on each product page linked above with each item.